We all jump on a surfboard for different reasons, right? Most of us like the feeling of being free, some want to stay strong, others crave adventure, and some just love the rush of a big wave or the feel of the water.
Sometimes, I've got to admit, I ain't even feelin' like grabbing my board. So I started thinking, “Why do I do this, anyway?” What keeps me going back to the beach?
Well, the answers kinda surprised me. It ain't just about having a good time or catching the best wave to show off. It's deeper than that.
This is my way of figuring out what makes us surfers tick. What are the real reasons we keep chasing those waves, you, me, and all the other wave-lovin friends?
Fun, or Something Even Better?
There's this fancy word “fun” that we use, but it's got different flavors, like different kinds of ice cream. Some people, like to study this stuff, and they even gave it names.
Fun 1 is the kind that's fun the whole time you're doing it. You never get tired of it, you want it to go on forever. That's what we all hope for when we grab our boards, right? On the perfect day, the waves are pumping, and you're riding the best wave of your life. You tell your friends, “You missed out! It was amazing”
Then there's fun 2. It's the kind of fun that's only fun after you're done with it. It might even be a real pain while you're doing it, but afterwards, you brag about it or you learn something from it. It's like a challenge or a hard lesson. Sometimes I get out there, the waves are huge, and I get scared. I might even fall off my board and get pounded by the waves. It's not fun while it's happening, but afterward, you think, “Wow, that was an adventure! I made it through!” That's Type 2 fun.
Fun 1 is like having a beer after a good day of surfing. Type 2 fun is like having a beer after a tough day of surfing. You need that beer, you know?
Then there's Type 3 fun. That's the kind where you're scared, you think you're going to die, you swear you'll never surf again. But you do. We all have those moments.
You know what makes this kind of scary fun even better? It's when you add a little fear and uncertainty. It's like a spice that makes the whole thing taste better.
Fear is actually a good thing, too. It's like your body's way of saying: hey, be careful! When you're scared, your body gets all pumped up, ready to fight or run. It makes you focus on the moment, and everything else fades away. And afterwards, you feel even stronger because you survived it.
Studies have shown that fear can actually make you feel happier. You know, like when you go on a roller coaster, it's scary but afterward, you feel all excited and alive.
And the best part? When you combine fear with skill, and you do it in nature, it makes you feel like a primal, powerful creature, like you're part of the wild. That's why we keep coming back for more, even though it's tough sometimes. It makes us feel strong, energized, and even euphoric.
Feeling Alive in the Waves
It's good to be in the water, you know? There's something special about surfing, feeling the waves all around you. Turns out, there's a real reason for that good feeling.
Scientists say that breaking waves make something called “magic air”. It makes us feel really happy! It's all about tiny things called ions. Think of them as tiny bits of energy that make things charged up. The waves make these charged ions, and they're all over the ocean. When you breathe in that ocean air, it's like you're breathing in happiness. It makes your body feel good, and it makes your mind feel calm.
Studies show that surfers feel happier and calmer after they're done surfing. Some people even use surfing to help people who are struggling with stress or sadness.
It's not just the air that makes us feel good, it's also the Earth's energy. We're all made up of little energy things too, and we need to connect with the Earth. But when we walk around with shoes, sleep in beds, and spend all our time inside, we lose that connection. That's why it's so good to walk barefoot on the sand or swim in the ocean. It's like grounding yourself and getting back in touch with the Earth's energy.
So next time you feel that good feeling after a surf, you know why. You're feeling the magic of the waves, the power of the Earth, and the joy of being alive.
A Break from Serious
Life can get pretty serious, we all have things we've got to worry about from bills to work and family—it can all get a little overwhelming. That's why surfing is such a great escape. It's a chance to step away from all the seriousness and just play, for a few hours we can feel like kids again, free and carefree.
But don't get me wrong, surfing isn't the only thing that matters. We've got other important things in our lives—families, friends, and ways to make the world a better place. Surfing is a part of that, a way to balance things out. It helps us keep our hearts young, no matter how old we get.
Surfing Friends
The best thing about surfing is the friends you make. You might be competing for waves out in the water, but on land, surfers are like family. It's easy to talk to other surfers. We share a love for the waves, and we understand each other. You know how it is—you catch a good wave, and everyone's happy for you.
Surfing is also about being equal. It doesn't matter who you are or how much money you have, everyone's the same when they're riding waves.
Surfers see the world in a similar way. We all love a good swell, and we all share stories about our adventures. It's more fun to surf with friends.
The Hawaiian word “Aloha” means sharing and love. It's a good way to live, and it's part of surfing too.
This is what makes surfing special. It's not just about the waves, it's about the people you meet along the way.